Hillsborough County Extension
Gardening Almanac
WHAT TO PLANT IN JANUARY
FLOWERS: Annuals: Alyssum, Bracteantha, Calendula, California Poppy, Carnation, Delphinium. Dianthus, Diasscia, Dusty Miller, Foxglove, Gaillardia, Geranium, Lobelia, Ornamental Cabbage/Kale, Nemesia, Osteospermum, Pansy, Petunia, Snapdragon, Statice, Verbena, Viola.
VEGETABLES: Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Endive-Escarole, Green Onions, Lettuce, Mustard, Peas, Potatoes, Turnips
HERBS and SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Nasturtium,Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme, Watercress.
BULBS: African Lily, Alstroemeria, Amaryllis, Aztec Lily, Calla, Crinum, Daylily, Gloriosa Lily, Hurricane Lily, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Shell Ginger, Spider Lily, Tritonia, Tuberose, Voodoo Lily, Walking Iris.
WHAT TO DO IN JANUARY
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant or transplant cold hardy shrubs and trees. Dig a planting hole twice the width of the root ball, but no deeper. Place the plant in the soil at the same level it was growing in the container or ground. Do not compact soil or prune foliage; the plant will shed what it can't support.
Prune deciduous fruit and ornamental plants. Leaf -losing plants like Crape Myrtle can be pruned at this time. Certain fruiting plants, such as grapes and peaches, have specific pruning requirements. Contact your County Extension Service for pruning information.
Protect tender plants from cold. Use covers that extend to the ground, but that do not touch the plants. Properly arranged, the covers will trap heat from the ground and protect tender plants.
Lightly prune annuals. Remove 1/2 - 1 inch of tip growth from each stem. Remember flowering annuals produce blooms on the new growth. The more branching you encourage the lovelier the flowering display.
Test soil. It takes time to change soil pH. Have your soil pH tested now in readiness for the spring gardening season. County Extension offices provide soil testing services and recommendations.
Irrigate to meet the needs of plants. Plants have reduced water needs during the cool, short days of winter. One-half to three-quarters inch of water every 7-10 days (or less often) will suffice for lawns and landscape plants. Adjust automatic time clocks to a winter watering schedule.
Plant deciduous fruit trees. Winter is an excellent time to establish hardy, leaf-losing fruit trees. Certain varieties of apples, blackberries, blueberries, figs, peaches, pears, and persimmons do well in Central Florida .
Plant and fertilize cool season annuals and vegetables. Check the planting guide to see what annuals and vegetables can be planted this month. Annuals and vegetables benefit from frequent, light applications of fertilizer. Apply 6-6-6 or a similar complete fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet (or 1 pound of 12-12-12 ). Repeat on a monthly basis. An alternative approach is to use timed-release fertilizers such as Osmocote or Dynamite. These fertilizers release nutrients slowly and only one application every 2 to 4 months is necessary.
Fertilize citrus trees. Young trees (to 4 years old) should be fertilized four to six times per year, from January to October. Do not use a fertilizer with an analysis higher than 8-8-8 . Apply 1 pound of fertilizer per year of tree age per application. For mature, bearing trees older than 4 years, apply fertilizer three times each year: in January-February, May-June and October-November. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer per year of the tree’s age up to a maximum of 10 pounds per application. An 8-8-8 fertilizer containing secondary nutrients (particularly magnesium, manganese, copper and boron) is recommended. Fertilize an area twice the diameter of the tree canopy.
Stockpile leaves. Find a corner of your yard where fallen leaves from oaks and other leaf-losing trees can be stockpiled until grass mowing begins again. Mix leaves and grass clippings together to form a "hot," fast-working compost pile.
Spray persistent scale insect problems with horticultural oil. Spray the trunks and main branches of deciduous fruit trees with horticultural oil that smothers and kills these damaging insects.
Establish shade tolerant ground covers under trees. Growing grass in heavy shade is often futile. Try planting plugs of Seville , Amerishade, or Palmetto. If these St. Augustine cultivars don’t survive, it is doubtful any grass will. Substitute the grass with shade tolerant ground covers like Asiatic Jasmine, Ivies, or Mondo Grass.
WHAT TO PLANT IN FEBRUARY
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Alyssum, Arctotis, Asters, Baby's Breath, Balsam, Begonia, Bracteantha, Browallia, Calendula, California Poppy, Carnation, Diascia, Dianthus, Dusty Miller, Foxglove, Gaillardia, Geranium, Lobelia, Marguerite Daisy, Nemesia, Ornamental Cabbage/Kale, Osteospermum, Pansy, Petunia, Snapdragon, Strawflower, Sunflower, Sweet Pea, Vinca, Viola
VEGETABLES: Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cantaloupes, Carrots, Celery, Collards, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Endive, Green Onions, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, English Peas, Peppers, Potatoes, Pumpkin, Radish, Squash, Tomatoes, Turnips, Watermelon
HERBS and SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Nasturtium, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme, Watercress.
BULBS: Achimenes, African Lily, Alstroemeria, Amaryllis, Amazon Lily, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Caladium, Calla, Canna, Crinum, Crocosmia, Dahlia, Gaillardia, Gladiolus, Gloriosa Lily, Hurricane Lily, Kaffir Lily, Lilies, Louisiana Iris, Morea, Rain Lilies, Society Garlic, Tiger Lily, Tritonia, Tuberose, Voodoo Lily, Walking Iris, Watsonia,
WHAT TO DO IN FEBRUARY
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant or transplant cold hardy trees and shrubs. (See January)
Fertilize citrus trees if not done in January. (See January)
Fertilize annuals and vegetables. (See January)
Check Out Seed and Garden Catalogs. Most gardening catalogs arrive during the winter months. Check out the new varieties offered this year.
Prepare vegetable and flower gardens for spring planting. Till soil and add organic matter such as manure, compost or peat. Test pH of soil (Contact your county Cooperative Extension Service) and add lime or sulfur if necessary.
Prune, mulch and fertilize roses. Roses that are older than 1 year require a major pruning each year. Remove one-third to one-half of the top growth and any unproductive growth. Strip all leaves from remaining to rid plant of latent diseases and insects. Fertilize and mulch.
Prune grapes. Grapes should be pruned before leaves begin to sprout. Bunch grapes and Muscadine grapes each have different pruning requirements.
Control scab disease on citrus. Scab fungus causes light brown, corky areas on fruits and leaves of susceptible citrus varieties. Spray Murcott, Page, and Temple varieties with a copper fungicide when new growth emerges and again when 2/3 of petals has fallen from the flower blossoms.
Fertilize lawn and trees. Shop for a fertilizer that contains slow- or timed-release nitrogen. To determine the correct amount of fertilizer to use, simply divide the first number on the fertilizer bag (which represents nitrogen) into 100. Apply this amount per 1,000 square feet of lawn and landscape area. Broadcast the fertilizer over the soil or mulch and water. The nutrient and water absorbing roots of trees and shrubs are concentrated in the upper 6 to 12 inches of soil so there is no need to punch holes in the soil--simply water the fertilizer in.
Apply mulch to all plant beds. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch will discourage weeds and retain moisture in the soil.
Apply pre-emergent weed killer to lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides kill weed seeds as they germinate. Some fertilizers contain pre-emergent herbicide. Do not apply them near trees and shrubs or in areas where any seed will be planted. Carefully follow label directions.
Fertilize shrubs. A good lawn fertilizer such as 12-4-8 , or 15-5-15 or the like is usually adequate. Shop for a product with 30% to 50% of the nitrogen in a water-insoluble or slow-release form. Acid-loving plants (Azaleas, Hollies, Gardenias, Camellias, etc.) will benefit from an acid-forming balanced fertilizer such as 6-6-6 or 8-8-8 . Broadcast the fertilizer on the soil surface and water in.
Start vegetable and flowers from seed. Sow seeds in flats or pots in a light, sterile mix. Plant seed no deeper than twice the seed's thickness. Place in a sunny spot; keep warm and moist.
Watch new growth for aphid infestation. Aphids feed on the undersides of new, tender leaves causing curled, distorted growth. Most broad-spectrum insecticides easily control aphids, but soap solutions are effective as well. Mix 2½ tablespoons of liquid, dishwashing soap (do not use those containing a degreaser – use 1/3 less for concentrated soaps) in one gallon of water. Forceful sprays of water can dislodge aphids.
WHAT TO PLANT IN MARCH
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Alyssum, Amaranthus, Arctotis, Asters, Baby's Breath, Balsam, Bracteantha, Browallia, Calendula, Calliopsis, Celosia, Cleome, Coleus, Cosmos, Dahlberg Daisy, Delphinium, Dianthus, Diascia, Dusty Miller, Foxglove, Gaillardia, Gazania, Geranium, Impatiens, Kalanchoe, Lobelia, Marigold, Melampodium, Marguerite Daisy, Mexican Sunflower, Nasturium, Nemesia, Nicotiana, Nierembergia, Ornamental Pepper, Osteospermum, Periwinkle/Vinca, Petunia, Annual Salvias, Snapdragon, Stock, Strawflower, Sunflower, Torenia, Verbena, Viola, Wax Begonia, Zinnia;
VEGETABLES: Beans, Beets, Cantaloupes, Carrots, Corn, Cucumbers, Green Onions, Eggplant, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Okra, Peas, Peppers, Pumpkin, Radish, Squash, Sweet Potatoes, Tomatoes, Turnips, Watermelon
HERBS and SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Cumin, Dill, Fennel, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme, Watercress.
BULBS: Achimenes, African Lily, Alstroemeria, Amaryllis, Amazon Lily, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Blood Lily, Caladium, Calla, Canna, Crinum, Crocosmia, Dahlia, Elephant Ears, Gladiolus, Gloriosa Lily, Kaffir Lily, Lilies, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Rain Lilies, Shell Gingers, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Tiger Lily, Tritonia, Tuberose, Voodoo Lily, Watsonia, Walking Iris.
WHAT TO DO IN MARCH
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Control scab disease on citrus. (See February)
Fertilize lawn, trees and shrubs. (If not done in February).
Plant and fertilize vegetables. Check the planting guide to see what vegetables should be planted this month. Select varieties that are recommended for Florida ’s conditions. Unless large quantities of organic fertilizer material are applied, commercial fertilizer is usually needed for Florida gardens. 2 to 4 pounds of 8-8-8 or 1 to 2 pounds of 15-15-15 fertilizer is recommended. Broadcast this amount a week or two before planting. Additionally vegetable crops may need to be sidedressed 2 or 3 times during the growing season with half the above rates. Slow release fertilizers are very good and only one application per growing season maybe necessary.
Fertilize perennials. Perennials should be fertilized lightly 3 to 4 times during the growing season. Use a slow release fertilizer for best results.
Fertilize Palms. Choose a 10-5-15, 12-6-18 fertilizer labeled as a “Palm Special” or proportionally similar fertilizer containing 1% magnesium, 1 to 2 % iron and manganese, sulfur and trace amounts of zinc, copper and boron. Fertilizers that provide slow release of their nitrogen, potassium and magnesium are best. Applications of these fertilizers should be made 4 times per year at the rate of 1.5 pounds per 100 square feet (10 foot by 10 foot) or 1 pound to 5 pounds per established tree. Recommended months to fertilize are March, June, August and October. If fertilizers containing only quick release (water-soluble nutrients) are used, they should be applied monthly at a lower rate of ¾ pound per 100 square feet. Fertilizer should be applied to the entire ornamental planting area or at least the entire palm canopy area and watered in lightly.
Fertilize muscadine grapes. Mature, producing vines should receive 4 to 6 pounds per year of 6-6-6 or 8-8-8 with 25% to 30% of the nitrogen from slow release sources. Split applications are more efficient than a single application so use 1 1/4 to 2 pounds per application and apply three times per year. Recommended times are late March, May and just after harvest (in August).
Remove any cold damaged growth from plants. Frost or freeze-damaged growth on plants should be removed now. To determine how much of the plant you need to cut back, gently scrape the plant's bark to see if the cambium layer is green (living) or brown (dead). Prune all dead material.
Watch for lacebug infestations. Examine plants weekly. These sucking insects attack azalea, pyracantha, and sycamore producing whitish speckling on the upper leaf surface. Shiny black spots of excrement can be found on the underside. Treat when necessary with an insecticide or horticultural oil.
Prune landscape plants that require shaping and size reduction. Cut each branch separately with hand shears to maintain a neat, naturally shaped shrub. Note: Azaleas and Gardenias should not be pruned until after they bloom. Remove dead foliage from ornamental grasses and cut stems to 4 – 12 inches above the ground depending on the size of the clump.
Plant annuals and vegetables. Check the planting guide to see what annuals and vegetables should be planted this month.
Spray roses to prevent black spot and powdery mildew disease. Symptoms of black spot are dark, round spots with yellow halos followed by dropping leaves. Purchase a fungicide labeled for the control of these diseases and follow label directions.
Watch for pests. Lubber grasshoppers hatch. They are black with a yellow to orange line down their sides. Young lubbers should be hand-picked or treated with a pesticide. Aphids feed on the underside of new growth and cause cupped distorted leaves. Mites thrive in dry weather, sucking plant juices from the underside of leaves. Forceful sprays of water will dislodge both insects. Lady Beetles and several other beneficial insects are effective predators and will suppress aphids. Insecticide soap sprays and other pesticides will also control these critters if their natural enemies do not.
Use oak leaves as mulch or in a compost pile. A mulch of oak leaves around ornamental plants will suppress weeds, conserve soil moisture and add organic matter to the soil. The yearly addition of leaves may gradually acidify soils. Have your soil pH tested to see if lime is needed. If you choose to compost leaves, be sure to thinly layer them with manure or grass clippings to accelerate the decay process. Moisten, but don't saturate each layer. Turning the pile occasionally will also speed up decomposition.
Air layer to propagate plants. Select pencil-thick branches and remove a ring of bark about ½ to 2 inches wide, about 12 to 18 inches from branch tip. Gently scrape the girdled area to remove green tissue and dust it with a rooting hormone. Cover the area with a handful of moist sphagnum moss and enclose with a small sheet of plastic tied at both ends. Then cover with tin foil. Peel back the foil and check for roots in 4 to 6 weeks. When sufficient roots have been formed in the moss, cut the branch below the rooted area and plant in a container.
Pinch out growing tips and old blooms of annuals. To increase branching and flowering- remove ½ to 1 inch of tip growth from each stem. Flowering annuals produce blooms on the new growth. The more branching that you encourage the lovelier the flowering display.
WHAT TO PLANT IN APRIL
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Alyssum, Amaranthus, Asters, Balsam, Browallia, Celosia, Cleome, Calliopsis, Coleus, Cosmos, Crossandra, Dahlberg Daisy, Dusty Miller, Gazania, Gomphrena, Impatiens, Marigold, Melampodium, Mexican Sunflower, Morning Glory, Nasturtium, Nierembergia, Nicotiana, Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle/Vinca, Portulaca, Salvia, Silk Flower, Strawflower, Sunflower, Torenia, Verbena, Wax Begonia, Zinnia
VEGETABLES: Pole Beans, Lima Beans, Collards, Cantaloupes, Okra, Southern Peas, Sweet Potatoes, Summer Spinach, Peanuts, Jerusalem Artichokes, Watermelon
HERBS and SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Cumin, Dill, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme.
BULBS: Achimenes, African Lily, Amaryllis, amazon Lily, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Blood Lily, Caladium, Canna, Crinum, Crocosmia, Dahlia, Elephant Ears, Gingers,Gladiolus, Gloriosa Lily, Kaffir Lily, Lilies, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Rain Lilies, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Watsonia, Walking Iris.
WHAT TO DO IN APRIL
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Spray roses to prevent black spot and powdery mildew disease. (See March)
Control lawn weeds. Selectively spray winter weeds with a post-emergent weed killer labeled for your type of grass. Temperatures will soon become too hot to use many weed killers.
Water wisely. April is typically dry. Ornamental plants and fruit trees need 1 inch of water or rain per week. Lawns need 1/2 - 3/4 inches of water when 30% to 50% of the lawn shows signs of wilt (blue-gray color, folded blades). Place a few shallow cans or glasses in each irrigation zone and measure how much water your sprinklers apply. (This is a good way to make sure brown or dying areas are getting enough water). Adjust your timer and sprayers accordingly.
Remove thatch from lawns. Thatch, a layer of organic matter, builds up between the soil and grass blades. Thick thatch can cause mowing and pest problems. Verticut St. Augustine and Bermuda lawns, power rake Bahia lawns.
Seed, sod or plug lawns. New or existing Bahia lawns can be seeded now. Buy "scarified" seed to increase germination rate. Apply at a rate of 5 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Sod or plug new or damaged lawns.
Correct yellowing (iron deficiency) in Bahia lawns. The green color will eventually return as the growth rate slows. Meanwhile apply a spray of ferrous sulfate (2 ounces in 3-5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet) or a product with chelated iron. This will green-up the yard without encouraging excess growth.
Prune and fertilize spring flowering shrubs. Established plants benefit from several light prunings early in the spring season. Pruning, coupled with fertilization, will produce full, well-branched plants.
Watch for signs of turf insects; treat if necessary. Chinch Bugs attack St. Augustine lawns and cause brownish dry patches. Sunny areas of the lawn usually are attacked first. Mole crickets breaststroke through the soil, damaging grass roots. Sod webworms feed at night by chewing grass in concentrated areas (Note: Webs in the lawn indicate harmless spiders, not webworms). To test for the presence of these pests: Add 1½ ounces of dishwashing detergent (lemon-scented is best) to a 2-gallon sprinkling can full of water and drench a 2 foot by 2 foot area of lawn. Observe the area for about two minutes. If present, chinch bugs, caterpillars or mole crickets will be flushed to the surface. Treat the affected area and a 5-foot buffer around it. It is not necessary to spray the entire lawn.
Spray cucumbers, squash and melons. Both powdery and downy mildew diseases severely affect plants in the Cucurbit family. Leaves look scalded and progressively die. Preventative sprays of fungicides labeled for these diseases are recommended.
Control thrips on gardenia, roses and gladiolus. Flower thrips cause bud drop and discoloration of the petals. Spray every 7 to 10 days with any insecticide labeled for thrips on that particular plant.
Sidedress vegetable plants with fertilizer. Two or three applications of fertilizer are desirable during the growing season unless a slow release fertilizer was originally applied (See March). Apply 1 to 2 pounds of 6-6-6 or 6-8-8 , or similar fertilizer per 100 feet or row.
Fertilize outdoor potted plants. Soluble fertilizers should be applied frequently during the spring and summer months. Or a slow release fertilizer, such as Osmocote can be applied once or twice during the season.
Celebrate National Arbor Day. The last Friday in April is National Arbor Day. Plant a tree or palm. Dig the planting hole at least width of the root ball. Position the plant at the same depth (or slightly higher) than it was growing in the pot or ground. Remove all wraps from the root ball. Backfill the hole with soil and water as you go. Mulch well and water again. Stake if necessary.
WHAT TO PLANT IN MAY
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Amaranthus, Balsam, Celosia, Cleome, Coleus, Dahlberg Daisy, Gazania, Impatiens, Marigold, Melampodium, Mexican Sunflower, Morning Glory, Nicotiana, Nierembergia, Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle/Vinca, Rose Moss, Salvia, Silk Flower, Sunflower, Thunbergia, Torenia, Wax Begonia, Zinnia
VEGETABLES: Okra, Sweet Potatoes, Peanuts, Southern Peas, New Zealand Spinach
HERBS AND SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Dill, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme.
BULBS: Amaryllis, Amazon Lily, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Blood Lily, Caladium, Canna, Crinum, Crocosmia, Dahlia, Elephant Ears, Gingers, Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Rain Lilies, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Walking Iris, Watsonia
WHAT TO DO IN MAY
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Fertilize citrus trees. (See January)
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Fertilize palms. (See March)
Fertilize perennials. (See March)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Air layer shrubs and trees. (See March)
Fertilize muscadine grapes. (See March)
Spray roses to control black spot. (See March)
Sidedress vegetable plants with fertilizer. (See April)
Water wisely. (See April)
Check for signs of turf insects by drenching turf areas with a soapy solution. (See April)
Prune to control fire blight disease. Die back of loquat, apple, pear, and pyracantha may be caused by fire blight disease. Prune and destroy affected branches. Disinfect pruning tools between each cut with a solution of equal amounts of water and one of the following: rubbing alcohol, denatured ethanol or Pine Sol. Soak for 10 minutes.
Prune poinsettias to encourage a dense, compact plant. Pinch several inches of tip growth off each branch. Repeat this procedure whenever new growth exceeds 12".
Correct blossom - end rot on tomatoes. Rotted areas on the bottom side of tomatoes indicate a calcium deficiency. Have the soil tested for pH (call your county's Extension Service), try to keep an even moisture content in the soil and spray plants with products containing calcium (such as “Stop Rot”).
Control scale insects and mites. Plants suffering from chronic scale problems should be sprayed now to control the crawler (immature) stage. Watch for spider mite infestations during dry, warm weather. Spray promptly with a miticide or insecticidal soap 2 times (5 to 6 days apart) and/or wash the underside of leaves frequently with water.
Control oleander caterpillars. Covered in black, bristly, non-stinging hairs, these caterpillars are easy to control when young and small. Repeated sprays, prunings or hand picking are necessary. Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide, etc.) or Spinosad are "organic" alternatives.
WHAT TO JUNE IN JUNE
FLOWERS: Annuals: Balsam, Coleus, Dahlberg Daisy, Impatiens, Marigold, Melampodium, Mexican Sunflower, Nieremberia, Narrow-leaf Zinnia, Periwinkle/Vinca, Portulaca, Silk Flower, Torenia
VEGETABLES: Okra, Southern Peas (from seed), Sweet Potatoes, Cherry Tomatoes, Eggplant, Peppers (from plants)
HERBS and SPICES: (Plants, not seeds) Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme.
BULBS: African Lily, Amaryllis, Amazon Lily, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Canna, Crinum, Crocosmia, Gingers, Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Rain Lilies, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Walking Iris
WHAT TO DO IN JUNE
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Fertilize citrus trees if not done in May. (See January)
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Spray roses to control black spot. (See March)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Fertilize outdoor potted plants. (See April)
Inspect lawns for insect pests. (See April)
“Solarize” the vegetable garden or plant a cover crop. Nematodes and other soil pests can be managed by using the sun’s heat to sterilize garden soil. Clean all plants and debris from garden soil. Moisten thoroughly and cover the garden with clear plastic (2-6 mil). Leave plastic in place for a minimum of four to six weeks. Nematode populations can be reduced by planting a cover crop of French marigolds, hairy indigo, or Southern peas.
Give your houseplants a vacation. Move houseplants into the shade of a tree where they will benefit from strong filtered light, summer weather and rainfall. Provide a slow-release fertilizer.
Correct palm and cycad deficiencies. Queen palm, paurotis palm, and king sago frequently develop manganese deficiencies. Look for yellow, brown, or distorted growth on new leaves. Foliar sprays of manganese sulfate (not to be confused with magnesium sulfate) at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon along with one pound of manganese sulfate applied to soil will correct this deficiency on the next flush of growth.
Start cuttings. Take 4 to 6 inch cuttings of tip growth. Remove lower leaves. Dip cut ends in rooting hormone and stick cuttings in a sterile, moist soil mix. Cover soil and cuttings with a clear plastic bag. Place in strong, indirect light.
Establish plants during the rainy season. June through September are usually rainy months. New plants require frequent irrigation to get established, but you can reduce work and water by taking advantage of rainfall.
Irrigate according to the needs of plants. Lawn grasses and vegetables may need 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water twice a week. Water the lawn when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows signs of wilt (blue-gray color, folded blades). Place a few shallow cans or glasses in the irrigated zones and measure how much your sprinklers apply. Adjust your timer schedule accordingly. Landscape and fruiting plants will suffice with 1 inch of water per week. A rain shut-off device will override an automatic irrigation system in the event of rain.
Prune. Prune lightly to shape plants and encourages branching. Never remove more than 1/3 of a plant's foliage at a time. Summer flowering plants like hibiscus, oleander and crape myrtle will produce more blooms if old blossoms and seed pods are removed.
Plant palm trees. Palm roots grow when the soil is moist and warm so summer is best for planting palms. Plant top of root ball flush with the surrounding soil. Apply a 3 to 4 inch mulch. Never allow the soil to dry out during the first several months. Tall palms should be staked.
Mow lawn frequently. Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the blade height is removed per mowing. Leave clippings on the lawn to recycle nutrients, or use collected clippings as mulch or compost material.
WHAT TO PLANT IN JULY
FLOWERS: Annuals: Coleus, Impatiens, Marigold, Melampodium, Nierembergia, Periwinkle/Vinca, Silk Flower;
VEGETABLES: Okra, Southern Peas
HERBS and SPICES: (From plants, not seeds) Basil, Bay Laurel, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme
BULBS: African Lily, Amaryllis, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Canna, Crinum, Gingers. Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily , Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Walking Iris
WHAT TO DO IN JULY
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Fertilize azaleas, camellias and hibiscus. (See February)
Fertilize perennials. (See March)
Start a compost pile. (See March)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Spray roses to prevent black spot. (See March)
Fertilize outdoor potted plants. (See April)
Check lawns for insect pests. (See April)
Plant palm trees. (See June)
Prune landscape plants. Prune lightly to shape plants and encourages branching. Never remove more than 1/3 of a plant’s foliage at a time. Summer flowering plants like hibiscus, oleander and crape myrtle will produce more blooms if old blossoms and seed pods are removed. This should be the last pruning of the year for azaleas, as flower buds will form soon.
Solarize vegetable garden. Clear, till, level, and moisten soil, then cover with 2 to 6-mil clear plastic. Mound soil over the edges of the plastic to retain heat. Leave covered for four to six weeks. Solar heat will accumulate under the plastic and soil temperatures will increase to a point where nematodes, weed seeds and soil borne diseases will be killed.
Recycle grass clippings. Leave grass clippings on the lawn or use them as mulch or compost. Each full bag equals 1/4 pound of organic nitrogen fertilizer that can be recycled on the lawn, in flowerbeds or in compost.
Check citrus trees for rust mites, greasy spot and melanose diseases. Heavy Rust Mite feeding will blemish citrus fruits by causing a brownish discoloration of the peel. Interior quality of the fruit is not affected. Leaf spots can be signs of greasy spot or melanose diseases. Prune out all dead wood and spray with copper fungicide and summer oil emulsion. This spray will control all three problems.
Correct iron deficiency of plants. Symptoms appear on the new growth of plants. Leaves are yellow, but veins appear as fine green lines. Applications of iron chelate or iron sulfate are effective. Check soil pH to determine if an alkaline soil is causing the problem.
Install a rain shut-off device. This gadget overrides an automatic irrigation system when rain occurs. It is inexpensive, easy to install and quickly pays for itself with savings on your water bill. Florida law requires a rain shut-off device on new irrigation systems. Hillsborough County requires them on all irrigation systems. Contact an irrigation supply store for more information.
Cut back poinsettias and chrysanthemums. Poinsettias and chrysanthemums should be cut back several times through the growing season. New growth on poinsettias should be pinched back a few inches when it is 12 inches or longer, 6 to 8 inch cuttings can be rooted to have pot plants for Christmas. Pinch Chrysanthemum tips when stems are 6 inches long.
WHAT TO PLANT IN AUGUST
FLOWERS: Annuals: Coleus, Impatiens, Kalanchoe, Periwinkle/Vinca
VEGETABLES: Beans (Pole), Broccoli, Celery, Collards, Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Onions (Green), Pepper, Pumpkin, Southern Peas, Summer Squash, Tomatoes, Turnips, Watermelon
HERBS and SPICES: (From plants, not seeds) Basil, Bay Laurel, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme
BULBS: African Lily, amaryllis, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Canna, Crinum, Crocosmia, Elephant Ears, Gingers, Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Rain Lilies, Gladiolus, Iris, Moraea, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Walking Iris
WHAT TO DO IN AUGUST
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Fertilize palms. (See February)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Spray roses for black spot disease. (See March)
Fertilize muscadine grapes after harvest. (See March)
Check lawns for insect pests. (See April)
Fertilize outdoor potted plants. (See April)
Plant palms. (See June)
Solarize garden soil. (See July)
Add organic matter to garden soil. Grass clippings, leaves, manure or compost are all suitable as soil amendments. Till it in, wait two weeks and have soil pH tested. County Cooperative Extension offices offer soil-testing services.
Plant vegetable seeds directly in the garden or seed bed. Sow watermelon seeds by the 10th, but delay planting others until mid-month (See above list). Sow seed no deeper than twice its diameter.
Remove old flower and seed heads from annuals, perennials and crape myrtle. Prune off old flowers to encourage blooming.
Groom roses to enhance fall bloom. Remove dead and dying twigs and reduce length of excessively long canes. This is a neatening, not a major pruning.
Lightly prune poinsettias for the last time. Flower buds initiate in October. Pruning after September 10 results in small bracts (flowers) or none at all.
Apply magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) to palms. Correct yellowing of older fronds with one to five pounds of magnesium sulfate depending on the size of the palm.
WHAT TO DO IN SEPTEMBER
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Alyssum,Celosia, Ceome, Coleus, Cosmos, Gazania, Gomphrena, Impatiens, Marigold, Nicotiana, Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle/Vinca, Portulaca, Salvia, Sunflower, Torenia, Wax Begonia, Vinca, Zinnia
VEGETABLES: Beans, Broccoli, Cabbage, Celery, Collards, Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant Endive/Escarole, English Peas, Lettuce, Mustard, Onions (green and bulbing), Pepper, Radish, Southern Peas, Strawberries, Summer Squash, Tomatoes, Turnips
HERBS and SPICES: (From plants, not seeds) Basil, Bay Laurel, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme
Basil, Borage, Chervil, Coriander/Cilantro, Fennel, Mint, Rosemary
BULBS: African Lily, Amarylllis, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Canna, Cestrum, Crinum, Crocosmia, Elephant Ears, Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily, Lilies, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Narcissus, Rain Llies, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Watsonia
WHAT TO DO IN SEPTEMBER
RFor more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Spray roses to prevent black spot. (See March)
Fertilize perennials. (See March)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Check for signs of turf insects; treat if necessary. (See April)
Fertilize outdoor potted plants. (See April)
Correct yellowing in palms. (See August)
Groom roses to enhance fall bloom. (See August)
Plant vegetable garden. Seeds or transplants of the vegetables listed above should be planted now. Sow seed no deeper than twice its diameter. Select varieties recommended for Florida 's conditions.
Watch for infestations of worms in lawns. Sod webworms, armyworms, or grass loopers can damage all types of turfgrass. Damage appears in patches. Injured grass has notches chewed along the sides of the grass blades.
Inspect your sprinkler system. Check for broken, clogged or misdirected sprinklers. Make necessary repairs and adjustments in preparation for the fall dry season.
Divide herbaceous perennials and bulbs. Amaryllis, Cannas, Daylilies, Shastas, and other perennials can be lifted, divided and reset now. Prepare new beds with liberal amounts of organic matter. Space plants to provide for future growth.
Prepare strawberry beds for planting. Strawberry plants are treated as an annual in Florida and are best grown in raised beds covered with black plastic. Beds should be 6 to 8 inches high and 24 inches wide. Mix 2½ pounds of 6-8-8 fertilizer (ones that contain slow release nitrogen are best), per 100 square-feet of bed. Additional fertilizer should be banded 6 inches deep, down the center of the bed, at a rate of 1 pound per 25 linear feet.
Prune cold-sensitive plants. Hedges and ornamental plants which are susceptible to cold damage should be given a final pruning so new growth can mature and harden off by winter.
WHAT TO PLANT IN OCTOBER
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Alyssum, Baby’s Breath, Celosia, Cleome, Gazania, Globe Amaranth, Impatiens, Marigold, Nicotiana, Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle/Vinca, Phlox (annual), Salvias (annual), Sunflower, Wax Begonia, Zinnia
VEGETABLES: Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Onions, Peas, Radish, Spinach, Strawberries, Turnips
HERBS and SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Garlic, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme, Watercress.
BULBS: African Lily, Amaryllis, Anemone, Aztec Lily, Blackberry Lily, Calla, Cestrum, Crinum, Crocosmia, Elephant Ears, Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily, Lapeirousia, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Narcissus, Pineaple Lily, Shell Ginger, Spider Lily, Watsonia,Walking Iris
WHAT TO DO IN OCTOBER
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Fertilize citrus. (See January)
Fertilize lawns and trees. (See February)
Fertilize palms. (See February)
Fertilize shrubs. (See February)
Spray roses to prevent black spot and powdery mildew disease. (See March)
Watch for lacebug infestations. (See March)
Check lawns for insect pests especially sod webworms. (See April)
Sidedress vegetable plants with fertilizer. (See April)
Divide herbaceous perennials and bulbs. (See September)
Set strawberry plants. Plant strawberries in a prepared bed (see September). Bare-root plants should be set in moist, but well-drained soil. Don't cover the crown or leave roots exposed. Water daily until established. Varieties for Florida are Sweet Charlie, Oso Grande, Camarosa, Rosa Linda, and Selva.
Plant hardy fall/winter vegetables. Fall vegetable gardening is in full swing. Seeds or transplants of the vegetables listed above should be planted now. Select varieties recommended for Florida conditions.
Prepare Christmas cactus for holiday bloom. Six to nine weeks of cool night temperatures and 12 to15 hours of uninterrupted darkness are needed to set buds. Set plants outdoors away from exterior light and protect from freezes.
Plant winter ryegrass. Fine-textured winter ryegrass will provide a beautiful, bright-green winter lawn, but it also requires watering, mowing and fertilizing. Broadcast 10 to 20 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.
Refrigerate certain bulbs. Tulips, Daffodils, and Hyacinths are now available for sale. These do not do well if planted at this time of year. Instead, they should be placed in a refrigerator (not freezer) and held until December or January when they can then be planted. These bulbs should be regarded as an annual crop. They seldom perform well after the first year.
Watch for twig girdlers. These insects lay eggs from the branches and then prune them from the tree. The infested branches rest on the ground through the winter and the young twig girdlers hatch in spring. Control next year's crop by picking up and destroying fallen branches.
WHAT TO PLANT IN NOVEMBER
FLOWERS: Annuals: Ageratum, Alyssum, Baby’s Breath, Blue Sage. Calendula, California Poppy, Celosia, Cleome, Delphinium, Dianthus, Dusty Miller, Gazania, Geranium, Hollyhock, Impatiens, Lobelia, Nasturtium, Ornamental Cabbage/Kale, Pansy, Petunia, Phlox (annual), salvia (annual), Snapdragon, Stock, Sweet Pea, Verbena, Viola, Wax Begonia
VEGETABLES: Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Onions (bulbing and bunching), Peas, Radish, Spinach, Strawberry, Turnips
HERBS AND SPICES:. Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Garlic, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Nasturtium, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme, Watercress.
BULBS: African Lily, Amaryllis, Aztec Lily, Calla, Crinum, Elephant Ears, Gladiolus, Lapeirousia, Louisiana Iris, Moraea, Narcissus, Pineapple Lily, Shell Ginger, Society Garlic, Spider Lily, Walking Iris
WHAT TO DO IN NOVEMBER
For more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Fertilize citrus trees if not done in October. (See January)
Sidedress vegetable plants with fertilizer. (See April)
Set strawberry plants. November is the last month to plant strawberries. (See October)
Plant winter ryegrass seed. (See October)
Reduce irrigation frequency as weather cools. Lawn and landscape irrigation should be reduced during winter months. Adjust time clocks to conform to time changes or turn off sprinkler systems completely and water only when plants or the lawn need it.
Plant containerized roses. Plant roses now for a beautiful spring display. Prepare a good rose bed, buy roses grafted on Fortuniana (preferably) or Dr. Huey rootstocks, and plant them at the same depth they were growing in the containers. Antique or old garden roses do not need to be grafted.
Plant cold-hardy landscape plants. Fall is for planting. Cold-hardy trees and shrubs establish well during cooler months.
Check poinsettias for poinsettia hornworms. Young worms can be controlled with an insecticide. Handpick mature worms.
Root-prune plants scheduled for transplanting. The best time to transplant trees and shrubs is December through February. Root-prune them now to help them survive the move. Cut a 12-15 inch circle around the plant, slicing the roots with a shovel to a depth of 12 inches. When transplanting (four to six weeks later) dig four inches beyond the root-pruned area.
Monitor the vegetable garden. Continue planting fall vegetables. Apply two to four pounds of 8-8-8 , or 1 or 2 pounds of 15-15-15, or similar fertilizer per 100 square feet every 2-3 weeks. Watch for caterpillar feeding and spray with Bacillus Thuringiensis if detected. Aphids and other soft-bodied insects can be controlled with insecticidal soap. Remove young weed seedlings. Apply mulch.
Bring houseplants in for the winter. Houseplants set outside for the summer should be cleaned up and set in protected areas before the temperature dips below 55°F.
Divide and reset perennials. Continue to dig and replant herbaceous perennials and bulbs such as daylilies, gerberas, and caladiums.
Use horticultural oil to control scale insects. Horticultural oil sprays are an effective and environmentally safe way to control scale insects. The oil coats the scale and suffocates it.
WHAT TO PLANT IN DECEMBER
FLOWERS: Annuals: Baby’s Breath, Calendula, California Poppy, Delphinium, Dianthus, Dusty Miller, Foxglove, Geranium, Hollyhock, Nasturtium, Ornamental Cabbage/Kale, Pansy, Phlox (annual), Snapdragon, Stock, Sweet Pea, Viola;
VEGETABLES: Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Lettuce, Mustard, Onions, Peas, Radish, Spinach, Turnips
HERBS and SPICES: Anise, Basil, Bay Laurel, Borage, Caraway, Cardamon, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro/Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Garlic, Ginger, Horehound, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mexican Tarragon, Mint, Nasturtium, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme, Watercress.
BULBS: African Lily, Amaryllis, Aztec Lily, Calla, Clivia, Crinum, Hurricane Lily, Narcissus, Watsonia, Zephyr Lily
WHAT TO DO IN DECEMBER
RFor more details on the following, call your local Extension office or visit the University of Florida ’s publication website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Plant and fertilize annuals. (See January)
Reduce irrigation frequency as weather cools. (See November)
Plant containerized roses. (See November)
Select and care for "potted" poinsettias. For a long-lasting display, select plants with tight, green buds in the center of the red bracts. Yellow pollen should not be shedding. Place plant in a cool, sunny, draft-free location.
Rake up fallen leaves. Use leaves as mulch or compost leaves by layering them with a little lime and small amounts of fertilizer or manure.
Trouble-shoot houseplant problems. Brown leaf tips of margins - too much fertilizer or too dry. Thin new growth or yellowing older growth means too little light. Wilting and yellowing mean too much water or poor drainage.
Protect tender plants during cold weather. Protect plants with covers that extend to the ground. This will trap heat radiating from the soil.
Mow and fertilize ryegrass. Frequent fertilization is necessary to keep ryegrass dark green and growing. Weekly mowing may be required.
Plant cold-hardy landscape plants. Cold hardy plants establish easily during winter months.
Transplant trees and shrubs. Plants that are dug and moved need not be pruned. The plant will naturally shed what it can't support. Keep the plant well watered.
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